Trip to Ankara
Ankara, Europe · ESB
Ankara, Turkey's administrative heart, offers a distinct experience from the coastal allure of Istanbul or Antalya. It's a city that hums with the rhythm of governance and academia, presenting a more reserved yet deeply authentic Turkish character. Expect wide boulevards, efficient public transport, and a noticeable lack of tourist crowds. While it might not boast ancient ruins on every corner, Ankara provides a genuine glimpse into modern Turkish life, with a strong emphasis on national history and a burgeoning contemporary arts scene. It's a place to understand Turkey's present by exploring its past and its capital's daily pulse.
Neighborhoods to know
Kızılay
The city's bustling commercial and social hub, centered around the main square. Kızılay is where you'll find a dense concentration of shops, cafes, cinemas, and government buildings. It's a great starting point for exploring, easily accessible by metro, and offers a wide range of accommodation from budget hostels to mid-range hotels. Visit during the day for shopping and people-watching, or in the evening for a lively atmosphere.
Çankaya
An upscale residential and diplomatic district, home to many embassies, the Presidential Palace, and the Grand National Assembly. Çankaya is known for its leafy streets, modern apartment complexes, and high-end boutiques and restaurants. It’s quieter than Kızılay but offers a sense of order and prosperity. Ideal for a stroll if you appreciate well-maintained urban spaces and want to see where much of Turkey's political elite resides.
Bahçelievler
A popular, relatively modern neighborhood with a younger vibe, known for its numerous cafes, bars, and student-friendly eateries. Located near universities, Bahçelievler offers a more relaxed and bohemian atmosphere compared to the city center. It’s a good spot for evening entertainment and casual dining, with many affordable options. Explore its tree-lined avenues for a taste of Ankara's contemporary social life.
Hamamönü
A beautifully restored historical quarter offering a charming escape into Ottoman-era architecture. Hamamönü features cobblestone streets, traditional houses converted into cafes, artisan shops, and small museums. It’s a picturesque area perfect for a leisurely afternoon walk, especially in the spring or autumn. Enjoy Turkish coffee or tea in a quaint courtyard and soak in the historical ambiance.
Ulus
The older, historic heart of Ankara, surrounding the Citadel. Ulus is a maze of narrow streets, bustling markets, and significant historical sites, including the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. While parts can feel gritty, it's essential for history buffs. Be mindful of your surroundings, especially after dark, but explore its markets and ancient structures during daylight hours for an authentic glimpse of the old city.
Top attractions
Anıtkabir (Atatürk's Mausoleum)
The imposing mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of the Republic of Turkey. This vast complex includes a museum detailing Atatürk's life and the Turkish War of Independence. Entry is free. Visit early to avoid crowds and witness the changing of the guard ceremony. Allow at least 2-3 hours.
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations
Housed in a beautifully restored 15th-century caravanserai, this museum showcases artifacts from Paleolithic times to the Ottoman era, with a strong focus on Hittite, Phrygian, and Urartian civilizations. Entrance fee is approximately 10 EUR. It's located in the Ulus district, near the Citadel.
Ankara Citadel (Ankara Kalesi)
A historic fortress offering panoramic views of the city. Wander through its ancient walls, explore the narrow streets within, and discover small artisan shops. Entry to the citadel grounds is free. Best visited in the late afternoon for sunset views. Allow 1-2 hours.
Kocatepe Mosque
One of the largest mosques in Ankara, completed in 1987. Its architecture is a modern interpretation of classical Ottoman style. Visitors are welcome outside of prayer times; modest dress is required. Entry is free. It's a significant landmark visible from many parts of the city.
Ethnography Museum of Ankara
Displays Turkish ethnographic artifacts from folk life, including Seljuk and Ottoman periods. It's housed in a striking building dating back to 1928. Entrance fee is around 5 EUR. Located near Anıtkabir, making it easy to combine visits.
Erimtan Archaeology and Arts Museum
A modern museum displaying a private collection of archaeological finds and contemporary art. Offers a different perspective on Turkish history and culture. Admission is approximately 7 EUR. Located near the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations.
When to go to Ankara
Ankara experiences a continental climate with hot, dry summers and cold, snowy winters. The best times to visit are spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). During these months, temperatures are pleasant, typically ranging from 10°C to 20°C, with minimal rainfall. Summer (July-August) can be very hot, exceeding 30°C, while winter (December-February) sees temperatures often below freezing, with significant snowfall. The peak tourist season is limited, making it less crowded than coastal cities year-round. Major events include the Republic Day celebrations on October 29th.
Eating out
Dishes to try
- Ankara Tava: A slow-cooked lamb dish, often prepared with diced lamb, yogurt, and butter, resulting in incredibly tender meat. It's a regional specialty worth seeking out.
- Beypazarı Güveci: While Beypazarı is a town outside Ankara, its famous güveç (a slow-baked casserole, typically lamb or beef with vegetables) is widely available and popular in Ankara restaurants.
- Çiğ Börek: A thin, deep-fried pastry filled with seasoned minced meat. Crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside, it's a delicious, often snack-like dish originating from Crimean Tatars.
Where to eat
For authentic Turkish cuisine, head to the streets surrounding the Ankara Citadel in Ulus, where you'll find traditional *lokantas* (eateries) serving home-style dishes. Bahçelievler and Tunalı Hilmi Street offer a wider range of modern cafes and restaurants catering to a younger crowd, with prices for a main course typically ranging from 8-15 EUR. Kızılay also has numerous options, from fast food to more formal dining, offering good value.
Getting around
From the airport
Ankara Esenboğa Airport (ESB) is served by HAVAŞ airport shuttles, which are the most convenient and cost-effective option. Buses depart regularly for Kızılay (city center) and take approximately 45-60 minutes, costing around 4 EUR. Taxis are also available, offering a direct ride to your accommodation but at a higher cost, typically 25-35 EUR depending on the destination.
In the city
Ankara has an efficient public transport system comprising a metro, extensive bus network, and trams. A single journey on the metro or bus costs approximately 0.50 EUR using a rechargeable AnkaraKart. Walking is feasible within specific neighborhoods like Kızılay or Hamamönü, but the city is spread out. Cycling infrastructure is developing but not yet widespread. Consider using ride-sharing apps like Uber or local alternatives for convenience, though they are pricier than public transport.
Local culture & tips
Ankara's pace is generally more relaxed than Istanbul's. While friendly, locals appreciate politeness and a measured approach. Tipping is customary but not obligatory; rounding up the bill or leaving 5-10% in restaurants is appreciated. Meal times are typically later than in Western Europe, with lunch around 12:30-14:00 and dinner starting around 19:00 or later. While generally safe, like any large city, be aware of your surroundings, especially in crowded markets or at night in less-trafficked areas. Public displays of affection are less common and can draw attention. Dress modestly when visiting religious sites.
How long to stay in Ankara?
We recommend at least 4 days on site to enjoy Ankara without rushing. Add 1-2 extra days if you're pairing it with another Europe stop. For a short city-break, 3 days already cover the highlights.
Quick facts
- AirportESB
- RegionEurope
- CountryTR
Travel budget in Ankara
Ankara offers good value, especially compared to major European capitals. A frugal traveler could manage on 30-35 EUR per day (hostel dorms ~15 EUR, street food/simple lokanta meals ~10 EUR, minimal transport). A standard budget of 40-50 EUR per day is comfortable (mid-range hotel ~25-30 EUR, restaurant meals ~15 EUR, museum entries, local transport). For a more comfortable experience, budgeting 70-80 EUR+ per day allows for nicer hotels, better restaurants, and more activities. A single museum ticket averages 5-10 EUR, a coffee around 1.50 EUR, and a local beer 3 EUR.
Where to stay in Ankara
Plan ~€25/night mid-range in Ankara — central neighbourhood, double room with breakfast. To compare availability and real pricing for your dates, we send you straight to Booking.com with a pre-filled search.
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Other destinations in Europe
Ankara pairs well with other cities in the same region. Add one or two to your itinerary to amortize the long-haul flight and mix up the experience.